Bucket List Travel Goals: Ticking off an Unexpected August Trip to Kashmir
Kashmir was never part of my travel plans for 2022, but August brought about the winds of change. Most of our friends moved to other cities during the COVID-19 pandemic, and some after the pandemic. We didn’t want to waste the long weekend by binge-watching a series on Netflix and ordering takeaways. Discussions sparked, and our conversations eventually led to this impromptu trip.
We’ve never done anything like this before. We’re a couple of planners; we hardly ever make spontaneous decisions. We discuss ideas at length and then carefully decide which ones we think would be best. The beauty of the valley, the pristine lakes, and the thrill of adventure sports fascinated us. Then, on the morning of the 10th of August, my husband came across an affordable package on MakeMyTrip and decided to book it for us. After booking the package, we realised that we would be travelling during the Independence Day weekend and that the entire valley would probably be filled with the army. To add to the apprehension, after finally landing at Sheikh ul-Alam International Airport, we realised that some of our trepidations were correct.
Work and courses needed to be wrapped up before the trip, and I couldn’t do much reading about Kashmir beforehand. I already had jackets, thermals, and woollen clothes required for the trip, so there was no need to go shopping before departure. I didn’t even really check the itinerary much. The fact that I was going to Kashmir was exciting enough for me. So, when the day finally arrived, I was a bundle of nerves. The flight was not only on time, but the two-and-a-half hours it took also flew by very quickly. Seeing the valley from my window seat proved that this was unlike any place I’d ever visited. None of the movies or documentaries on Kashmir could prepare you for the stunning scenery of the pastures. Even the best photographs don’t do justice to the Persian-style gardens and rugged mountains. When you reach Srinagar Airport, you immediately notice the signs written in Urdu. No other Indian airport has signboards in Urdu, at least not the ones that I have been to. While you might feel uneasy when soldiers patrol the streets armed with automatic weapons, we did not encounter any safety issues throughout our journey.
Srinagar, The Summer Capital of Jammu and Kashmir
We arrived in Srinagar around 1 pm. Noon highlighted a dusty yet colourful city. We did not anticipate the organisers would be so collected and punctual, as we had mixed experiences in the past with similar online travel companies, but they were. It was refreshing. They picked us up from the airport on time and took us to their lounge, where we met their tour manager, who briefed us about our itinerary.
The climate in August offers Srinagar’s tourists warm and sunny weather, so I did not need my woollen clothing. According to locals, April/May is the best time to visit Kashmir. The ideal itinerary would be: Srinagar, Sonmarg and Gulmarg in winter; and Srinagar, Sonmarg and Pahalgam in Monsoon/Summer. During winter, you will have to pack thermals and jackets. You might need a jacket only in Gulmarg during summer. In summer, you might only need a jacket in Gulmarg.
We chose to stay near Dal Lake, so we went for a boat ride. Although the natural beauty of Kashmir can be experienced throughout the year, the scenic beauty of Dal Lake is unmatched. Compared to Srinagar’s noisy streets, the lake’s serenity makes it an ideal place for rest and recreation. We chose to stay near Dal Lake, where we went for a boat ride close to our accommodation.
Things to do in Srinagar
- Shankaracharya Temple
- Mughal Gardens
- Shikara Ride
- Lal Chowk
- Mosques
Most people use Srinagar as a base and plan day trips to places of interest. We prefer to explore cities by walking. However, we didn’t see many people doing that in Srinagar. Most people hire a cab or get one from travel planners. Tourism is the primary source of income for the locals, so be prepared to negotiate hard for a reasonable price. If you don’t want to stay in hotels, you can also stay in farmhouses, available on Airbnb like this one.
Sonmarg
Sonmarg was not part of our package, but we paid INR 3000 to the taxi driver to take us on this one-day trip. We decided to take this additional trip because we felt one day was enough in Srinagar.
Sonmarg/Sonamarg is located about 80 km from Srinagar in the Ganderbal district of Jammu and Kashmir. During summer, the most recommended trip is a pony ride up to the Thajiwas glacier. Sonamarg is historically significant as a gateway on the ancient Silk Road, connecting Jammu and Kashmir with Tibet.
Pony rides aren’t very expensive if you travel as a large group. But, for smaller groups, one must be ready to spend more. Due to the army’s restrictions, you can visit either the glacier or zero point in Sonmarg. ‘Zero point’ is so called as it is always at or below zero degrees Celcius. You have to leave certain points before 5 pm, or else you will have to stay in Sonmarg or at the army camp.
The pony ride on the cobbled road was very uncomfortable for me; in fact, I developed severe pain and swelling on my hands and especially my wrist after the ride. I didn’t know how to ride, the pony was uncooperative and would suddenly take a detour from the trail, and the saddle was also uncomfortable. But I would say that the experience is worth it and you shouldn’t miss it. I have read about glaciers only in my geography textbooks and had never seen one up close. The experience is surreal and meditative. And, if you start early from Srinagar and start your journey before the big groups, you can avoid the crowd. The view of green valleys, the twitter of birds and the sight of glaciers is something that I will never forget for the rest of my life.
Gulmarg
Gulmarg, or ‘meadow of flowers’, is a small town in the Baramulla District of Jammu & Kashmir. It lies at a distance of 50 km from Srinagar. Gulmarg is known for its winter sports and is considered one of the best skiing destinations in Asia. It is accessible from Srinagar by road via Tangmarg. You can take pit stops and explore some areas using a quad bike if you want. The road climbs uphill for the last 12 kilometres to Gulmarg, and the surrounding areas are filled with pine and fir trees. We took a gondola ride in Gulmarg. You must be ready to wait for a few hours in the queue to enjoy the experience. It’s better to book the tickets online to avoid the hassle of local tour guides. You don’t really need a tour guide to explore the local terrain. As we visited in August, there wasn’t much snow, nor were there many other activities. But the gondola ride to the top of the mountain was still a beautiful experience. There are some temples, a golf course, King Hari Singh’s palace and a church in Gulmarg. If you ask me, you can skip all that; just go on a gondola ride and chill at your hotel.
Spending Independence Day in Kashmir
I will never forget spending Independence Day in Kashmir. It was an entirely different experience. Our driver informed us a day before that there would be network issues until after noon on August 15th, but strangely, the cable network was also not accessible in the morning. Fortunately, we could access both the mobile network and the internet on the day. The car ride back to Srinagar was stressful because we weren’t sure whether we would be stopped and checked. If you’re planning to visit Kashmir, I would suggest you avoid visiting during this period, even though it’s relatively cheap as it’s not peak season. I hope that peace comes quickly to the valley and its beautiful people, who are incredibly friendly to tourists. People frequently complain about local tourist guides. Perhaps some of them may try to charge you a little extra for their services, but this is their only source of income, so it’s worth remembering that.
For me, it has been more than two years since I travelled for pleasure. I am glad I took the chance and made this trip to Kashmir. We all need these little moments of escape from adulting, but like children, we forget that we have to create them for ourselves.
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